What does “unscented” really mean?
Just because a product is labeled “unscented,” that doesn’t mean it’s free of all natural or synthetic fragrance chemicals. “Unscented generally means that the product may contain chemicals that neutralize or mask the odors of other ingredients,” states the EPA’s Safer Choice Fragrance-Free fact sheet.
“Unscented,” in this respect, refers to the net result: The final product doesn’t have a distinct scent that most people would notice, but it may still include fragrance compounds.
Makers of such products usually formulate them by starting with main ingredients that have a mild scent, says Rita Kachru, MD, associate professor and section chief for clinical immunology and allergy at the David Geffen School of Medicine at University of California Los Angeles. Then, masking agents are added to neutralize those scents. Common masking agents include benzyl alcohol, benzoate, citronellol, limonene (citrus), lanolin, and essential oils (vanilla, peppermint, citrus).
For example, an antiperspirant deodorant can be labeled as “unscented” and marketed toward sensitive skin, but the ingredient list can still include “fragrance,” “parfum,” or another synonym. If the fragrance was added to counteract the scent of the raw materials, the antiperspirant can be labeled as “unscented.” However, for people who are sensitive to fragrance, this antiperspirant may still cause a reaction. The type of fragrance isn’t always listed on a product’s label, so even people who are sensitive to only specific fragrances can’t be sure that the product won’t irritate them.
Take, as another example, a body lotion that’s labeled as “unscented.” While it may not include any ingredients marked as “fragrance” or “parfum,” if it doesn’t bear a “fragrance-free” label, it may still contain fragrance. In this case, you can read the ingredients and look for common masking agents like the ones we listed above, or use only clearly labeled fragrance-free lotions.
The bottom line: Unfortunately, even if you’ve been trying to avoid reactions to products by seeking out unscented ones, you might still be exposed to allergens and irritants. Instead, Tamara Lazic Strugar, MD, FAAD, associate clinical professor of dermatology at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai, recommends that people prone to allergies and sensitivities stick to fragrance-free products wherever possible.
Okay, so what does “fragrance-free” mean?
“Fragrance-free means that fragrance materials or masking scents are not used in the product” at all, says the EPA.
Some products may have language such as “no perfumes,” “perfume-free,” or “no fragrance” on their packaging. For example, , a top pick in our laundry detergent guide, is fragrance-free, and the package reads “no perfumes.”
You can also identify fragrance-free products by looking for certification badges, such as the EPA’s Safer Choice Fragrance-Free label or the National Eczema Association’s Seal of Acceptance. Those two certifications in particular have strict ingredient guidelines, and products that meet their standards cannot contain any fragrance materials.
All of this means that if you’re looking for products without potentially irritating fragrance ingredients, you should keep an eye out for that “fragrance-free” label.
What about “natural” fragrances?
Natural fragrances are sourced directly from, well, nature, whereas synthetic fragrances are produced in a laboratory from chemical compounds. However, a natural fragrance is still a fragrance and can trigger allergic reactions. In fact, according to Strugar, “there are about 160 fragrance ingredients identified that can cause allergic reactions, and about half of those are natural or essential oils.” Studies published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology and the American Contact Dermatitis Society’s journal list 175 and 150 potentially irritating fragrance ingredients, respectively.
For example, some people may find natural citrus scents derived from essential oils (like citral) irritating, but they may not experience a reaction to a synthetic citrus compound, explained JJ Vittoria, founder of custom perfumery Olfactory NYC, via a phone interview.
Some other natural fragrances that commonly cause irritation include chloroatranol and atranol (found in oakmoss and tree-moss fragrances), geraniol (an essential oil derived from aromatic plants), and cinnamaldehyde (from the bark of cinnamon trees).
If you’re looking for personal-care and cleaning products that won’t exacerbate allergies or respiratory or skin conditions, natural fragrances aren’t necessarily the way to go — you’re probably better off looking for completely fragrance-free products.
How do you know if you’re sensitive or allergic to a fragrance?
None of the above terms (“unscented,” “fragrance-free,” “natural”) are federally regulated, so it’s up to shoppers to determine which products won’t cause a reaction or exacerbate a condition. And that mostly involves trial and error.
Fragrance sensitivities and allergies can manifest as respiratory symptoms, especially if you already have asthma. They can also appear as itchiness, bumpy skin rashes such as contact dermatitis, exacerbation of eczema symptoms, headaches, sneezing, runny nose, and nausea.
In general, leave-on products are more likely to cause skin reactions than wash-off products. A moisturizer, Strugar explains, is more likely to trigger an allergy than a shampoo because the moisturizer sits on your skin for hours or even days, while the shampoo washes off within seconds.
The same goes for fragrances in home-cleaning products, which you’re likely to wash off your skin soon after cleaning. Gloves can also protect your hands from fragrances (as well as other caustic chemicals in cleaning products), but at the very least, you should wash your hands after cleaning to help prevent irritation.
You might also be more sensitive to fragrances in laundry detergents, as those scents are usually engineered to stick around on clothing that you wear for long periods of time. If you’re prone to irritation from fragrances, consider switching to a fragrance-free detergent like .
If you’re looking for a personal scent, Vittoria always recommends testing a fragrance on your skin before purchasing it, just to confirm that you won’t have a reaction to its ingredients. The same goes for personal-care items such as moisturizers and body washes — test a scented product on a discreet part of your body before applying it more generally, just to be sure it doesn’t cause an adverse reaction.
If you think you might be allergic to a fragrance, contact your doctor and discontinue use of the product until you can get tested for specific allergens.
As I continue my journey to eliminate fragranced products from my life, and hopefully ease my sensitivity and allergy symptoms in the process, I’m keeping my eyes peeled in stores for items that are specifically labeled “fragrance-free,” bear the EPA’s Safer Choice Fragrance-Free label, or have the National Eczema Association’s Seal of Acceptance. And unfortunately, this means I’ll also be avoiding products labeled “unscented,” because there’s a good chance they still contain fragrance.
This article was edited by Megan Beauchamp and Maxine Builder.
